Husk Savannah Sommelier Uncorks Georgia Wine

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Determined to adopt the restaurant’s local-first philosophy, Jamie Crotts partnered with Crane Creek Vineyards to create a unique varietal

Written by COLLEEN ANN MCNALLY
Photography by ANDREW THOMAS LEE

FROM ITS INCEPTION, Husk has always celebrated local ingredients — fresh seafood, seasonal produce and provisions from nearby farms. That ethos has long been familiar on the plate, and now, thanks to Husk Savannah sommelier Jamie Crotts, it is extending to the wine glass.

A Georgia native, Crotts’ passion for sourcing the perfect pour began in 2016 when he traded a career in computer programming for the hospitality industry, first as a server at Old Edwards Inn & Spa in Highlands, North Carolina, and later as the general manager at Dorothy’s Cocktail & Oyster Bar on St. Simons Island, Georgia. In January 2022, he took the helm of Husk Savannah’s wine program, expanding the overall wine list from 80 to 300 labels — including some surprising vintages from Georgia.

Husk Savannah restaurant exterior

It’s no secret that Georgia typically isn’t recognized for its wine due to the climate and terrain. Still, Crotts was determined to adopt Husk’s local-first philosophy, and as a result, he has partnered with Peter and Jess Seifarth of Crane Creek Vineyards in Young Harris to create a unique varietal to serve at the restaurant. The vineyard is located on a clay soil clot and grows Albariño grapes — both rarities for Georgia — making this sip all the more special. 

Here, the homegrown somm pours his heart out for the state’s wine industry. 

Man with glasses, curly hair and a beard standing with his hand in his pocket in front of a big window

ON BECOMING A SOMMELIER  

The spring of 2016 marked the moment in my life when I first encountered an extensive fine wine list at a fancy restaurant. While I knew nothing about wine at the time, reviewing this list sparked a connection inside my analytical brain. Being able to let my detail-oriented nature flourish with a career that is also fun, social and interesting is something that I remain ever grateful for.

ON HIS APPROACH TO WINE

At Husk Savannah, our philosophy is twofold: First, we ardently support and promote small, family-run wineries. Showcasing the best wines that are being offered by the little guy is a deeply rewarding pursuit, and it integrates well with the greater concept and values of Husk. Second, we’re committed to providing an enlightening wine experience in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere for guests, regardless of their wine expertise.

Husk Savannah restaurant interior

ON THE ESSENCE OF GEORGIA WINE

There are many misconceptions about Georgia wine. Some believe it’s exclusively made from muscadines or blueberries, or that it’s inherently sweet. Furthermore, the public’s understanding of North American European grape varieties is all but nonexistent. It is important to know that Georgia’s success as a wine region largely depends on winemakers’ understanding how to best utilize hybrid grape varieties that can thrive in our state. Another notable misconception pertains to the fact that some local wineries source a great deal of fruit from out of state yet actively avoid transparently communicating this practice. This clouds the true essence of Georgia winemaking. Producers like Crane Creek Vineyards are working hard to establish a standard of quality that will inspire other wineries to showcase what can be accomplished with estate-grown Georgia fruit.

ON HIS CAN’T-MISS COLLABORATION  

Husk Savannah’s collaboration with Crane Creek Vineyards is one of the first instances where a fine dining establishment like ours is offering top-tier, estate-grown Georgia wines. This partnership is a testament to the quality and potential of local viticulture. When I show these wines to some of the best tasters I know, I can see it on their faces. The contents of these bottles are both intriguing and surprising. The anticipation for the release is palpable! We are aiming for a launch later this spring. While a specific date is still under wraps, I encourage everyone to stay tuned for what promises to be a lovely event.

Shelves lined with bottles of wine

ON THE FUTURE OF GEORGIA WINE

Simply put, Georgia wine remains a largely uncharted territory. The local vintners are still in the process of developing their methods to define and express the quality of Georgia terroir. We’re on the verge of introducing fine Georgia wines that cater to a diverse array of tastes [across] the wider market, which is a truly exciting prospect. As the world of Georgia wine unfolds, I invite people to approach with an open mind and palate. There’s still much that is waiting to be discovered. At Husk, we’re simply excited to play our part in leading this exploration of Southern agriculture and sharing the experience with our guests.

ON UNWINDING AFTER WORK

When not working, I tend to enjoy drinking lagers, micheladas and margaritas made from mezcal. My most frequented spot is Over Yonder. Their staff is incredible, and the execution of a modest menu in an enjoyable setting is among the best I have experienced. As for wine, I can’t be the only one who likes to drink champagne in bed while watching movies, can I?


Find this feature and much more in the March/April issue of Savannah magazine. Get your copy today!