Katie Bryant and Mark Ekstrom grew their Sandfly bakery through community and “nostalgia goods” and are preparing to open a second — much larger — location on Whitemarsh Island formerly occupied by Paula Deen’s Creek House
Written by LIA PICARD
Photography by ALLISON REVELLE
Creative direction by MORRIGAN MAZA
Set design by SARA SPICER
Hair and makeup by RIKKI RONAE
Production by GOOD CULTURE CREATIVE
IF YOU HAD TOLD KATIE BRYANT AND MARK EKSTROM, the duo behind Auspicious Baking Co., a decade ago that they’d eventually open a full-service restaurant in Savannah, they wouldn’t have believed you. “I think even in our first year of business, we would’ve laughed at somebody who said we’d be moving into a restaurant once owned by Paula Deen,” says Bryant.
“I would’ve been like, ‘Very ambitious of you to think that of us, but you’re crazy.’” It turns out, though, that “auspicious,” which means favorable and conducive to success, is more than just a clever name for the couple who planted roots in Savannah by chance.
Of course, success doesn’t happen overnight. Ekstrom and Bryant’s journey began in Pennsylvania, where Bryant honed her pastry craft in fine dining settings, and Ekstrom cut his teeth at a Greek deli, focusing on customer service and back-of-house duties. Seeking a new way of life and warmer winters, they booked jobs in St. Augustine, Florida, and headed south down I-95.
“By the time we got down to Florida, it just wasn’t the pace that we were looking for,” says Ekstrom. On the way down, they had camped out in Savannah, and smitten with its charm, they headed back to the Hostess City. The couple both landed jobs within three days — Ekstrom at Boar’s Head Grill and Bryant at Rum Runners Bakery — and knew they made the right choice.
After a few years, they decided to merge their skills and open a bakery. “We business planned for about a year and a half, almost two years,” recalls Ekstrom. “We had the opportunity to move into our first location by chance … and it took off like a rocket.”
They launched their business in a petite space in a Sandfly strip mall on Father’s Day in 2017. “That was intentionally planned in memory of my father, David Bryant, who’s passed,” says Bryant. “We celebrate that pretty hard every year as a big birthday anniversary and always treat the dads who come through the line.”
Their first month of business, they only offered their baked goods on Sundays. “It would take us three days to prepare product and then we would sell out in 45 minutes,” says Ekstrom.
It didn’t take long to build a following — and anyone familiar with what Bryant calls their “nostalgia goods” knows why. “We really love to do breads and pastries that remind you of your childhood or stuff that your grandparents would make,” she says.
Their treats are flavorful and inventive twists on classics. Within their display case, depending on the season, you might find a blueberry croissant loaf, pumpkin halva buns, strawberry cheesecake pop-tarts and a variety of croissants.
Bryant also pays homage to her and Ekstrom’s Pennsylvania roots with a Yuengling-cheddar loaf. “There are just kind of unique little regional tips of the hat,” she adds. Regulars know they sell crackers, and if you’re pregnant, you get them for free. “We’ve seen moms come through with four, five babies now, people who came in on day one on the line,” says Ekstrom.
With lines consistently out the door, limited seating and a growing roster of wholesale clients — including Perc, Foxy Loxy Cafe, The Black Rabbit and Asher + Rye, among others — the couple moved to a larger location nearby in 2020, before setting their sights on opening a full restaurant that accommodates their burgeoning business.
The opportunity to do so presented itself in November 2023 when they took notice of the recently closed Paula Deen’s Creek House on Whitemarsh Island. At 10,000 square feet, it was their most ambitious project yet, with a larger production facility, sit-down dining and a retail space. But the bones were good: The restaurant draws you in with lush gardens and a boardwalk. Inside, floor-to-ceiling windows boast a view of the wild marsh behind the restaurant. There’s also patio seating from which to enjoy the views alfresco. Nostalgic decor matches the vibe and rounds out the homey feel. “Mark has a superb collection of antique signage, specifically [related to] the baking industry,” says Bryant.
As with their Sandfly location, guests can peek in on the pastry production. “I think that’s always been a huge draw for our business, to have a view into production, to see those pastries being hand-shaped on the table,” says Bryant. “You’re able to stand there and buy a chocolate croissant and see tomorrow’s pastries being shaped and relate to the work that goes into it.”
It’s another nod to their Pennsylvanian upbringing where Callie’s Candy Kitchen, a Poconos staple, lets visitors peer in on the pretzel production. It’s a memory that’s stuck with Bryant, who visited the shop often. “We’re very excited to be able to preserve that connection with our customers, to see the staff working. It just continues to deepen that relationship.”
Guests to the Whitmarsh Island location have plenty to indulge in. In addition to the treats they’re already familiar with, Bryant plans on incorporating her sourdough cultures in pancakes and waffles and serving eggs Benedict on Auspicious’s fluffy English muffins. “We’re just trying to elevate that presentation and really expand on the services that we provide,” she says. “And getting to spend more time with our customers through that breakfast menu.” Eventually, they plan to add lunch and brunch, too.
For Bryant and Ekstrom, opening a second location — in addition to the Sandfly shop — means that they eat, sleep and breathe the bakery. But for them, it’s worth it to bring to life the next stage of their business and show Savannah their full range. “We are just very grateful to be able to move forward and step into the shoes that Savannah wants us to fill,” says Bryant.
Their bakery’s most auspicious feature may just be the community they’ve fostered over the years. “I don’t think Katie and I ever expected the relationships that we have built over the years,” says Ekstrom. “And that’s really what drives us forward and keeps us going.”
