Two Guys and a Taco Stand

- by

Can a taco change your life? The short answer is yes, especially when it’s piled high with braised short ribs, radishes, jalapeños and onions…and coming soon to the corner of Bull and 33rd streets, where chef Jon Massey and restaurateur Mike Cournoyer have transformed an erstwhile hair salon into a bona fide taco temple.

Bull Street Taco—Savannah’s first taqueria in the West Coast mold—feels just right for the reinvigorated Thomas Square neighborhood. If the to-go cup is downtown’s quintessential accessory, perhaps a taco in hand will be the new status symbol for those who live, work, eat and walk south of the park.

Though street food practically demands to be eaten standing up, the taqueria’s bar, window seating and outdoor patio are a welcome upgrade from old-school curbside taco trucks. “We want people to come in and say, ‘I think I’ll stay for another beer,’” says Cournoyer, the business side of the operation, who also renovated the space by hand and worked with designer Elizabeth Demos on the Baja-inspired decor.

Photo by Colin Douglas Gray

Starting at $3 a pop, Massey’s menu pairs juicy meats (Hawaiian tuna poke, Pacifico-braised carnitas) with bright flavors (sesame-ginger, huitlacoche, green mango) and housemade corn tortillas. According to the owners, the real treat is sticking to the basics. “This taqueria is a from-scratch restaurant,” says Massey, the former executive chef at 39 Rue de Jean. “We’re rooted in the freshness of ingredients and the flavor combinations of fundamental Mexican cuisine.”

For those who prefer to take their tacos on the road, there’s the party box: a $32 customizable to-go container housing ingredients for 12 tacos. Equally portable goat cheese churros, an exclusive from Natasha Gaskill of A Squad Bakeshop, compete for your attention. Thankfully, you have two hands.